Saturday, June 17, 2017

Project Roundup: More Irish stuff, yet another waistcoat, and dyeing

I haven't been sewing as much as I would like...for some reason, I've been more tired than usual, and it effected my motivation.  Plus, my major project was on hold until I managed to dye the silk then buy materials.  Excuses, I know.  But this will probably be fairly short.

Like before, they should be in more or less chronological order...

When I last posted a Project Roundup (my term for my "dress diary" posts, I had just finished my handsewn Irish leine...this meant that I needed to make the inar to go over it.

Image is a closeup of a Durer drawing.
The Inar.  For reference, the inar is a short, jacket like garment made of wool, and with a short, pleated skirt.  If it seems like I am stressing the word short...that's because the entire garment barely comes to my waist.

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Whose sleives hang trailing down Almost unto the shoe: the 16th Century Irish Leine


This project has been a long time coming; many (relatively) years ago, I wrote an article on 16th century clothing---my first serious research article, in fact.  It is only now that I have actually gotten around to making a suit of Wild Irish clothing, consisting of the leine and inar, as well as the shaggy brat.


The Project: 
This piece of documentation discusses bottom layer of the 16th century project….the leine.

The leine--a word translating now as shirt--appears essentially as a linen tunic, almost universally "saffron yellow", although lady's versions do appear in white, and I suspect that the lower classes might make due with natural coloured linen (ranging in colour from blue-grey to a lighter yellow[i]--I will discuss this more later).  For both sexes, pendulous or bagpipe style sleeves were the norm, as was the use of massive quantities of linen cloth.  Men, at least, wore theirs bloused over a belt, to bring the garment to knee length.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Project roundup: Leine, waistcoats, and...stuff

So, I kind of promised that I would work on dress diaries more often...obviously, since my last blog post was over a month ago, I slacked.  Shame on me, I know.

But, here it goes.  In the last month or so, I've been working on three major projects, plus some others; testing my glove drafting (which I later taught a class on, and will write a post on later) with a trial pair in upcycled leather, sewing on the 16th century Irish Leine, and both developing a house waistcoat pattern for myself and making the first piece from it.

The photos are in approximately chronological order, and jump between projects...so pay attention:

To start, gloves.  Since I've been playing with 1560-70s Northern Europe, I wanted to work on a pattern that would be appropriate to that....it was both easier, and more challenging than I expected.  Actually drafting them wasn't that difficult...finding examples from the correct period which show any detail was.  Still, I managed, even if I'm still not certain of whether there should be a gusset into the thumb.

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Plotting the Next Major Project...another 1570s Suit

So, shortly after being asked to join the Laurels in the SCA a touch over two months ago at Oerthan Winter Coronet* I decided that I needed to attempt a real masterwork project for my elevation.  My last major project, the Brunswick Germans was decent...a good trial run of techniques and getting me closer to my goal of a tailored period court suit, but not an attempted masterwork--if not the use of machine stitching, the choices of non-period fabrics was a bar to that in my mind.  But now, I can actually afford the good fabrics to do it right, rather than working primarily from stash.

So, I decided to poke around, and see what I could find for inspiration.  This was somewhat complicated by wanting to find something I could/would actually wear, but other than the Germans I have been playing with.  Eventually, I ran across a certain portrait--one Sir Edward Hastings at the age of 29, in 1573.  It is absolutely gorgeous, and I will probably do a Featured Garment post on it sooner rather than later.

ART UK 597951

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Fly-by-Night Airship Jacket: Putting it together

Alright....this is part two of my posts on the Steampunk jacket, dubbed the "Fly-by-night" (no idea  why) Airship jacket.  Or, just airship jacket.  It was inspired by several things, the late Victorian military tunic or jacket, a particular image of Colonel Mostery (a Victorian era swordsman and fighter), and probably a couple other things I can't remember.

Part I, roughly covering the drafting, can be found HERE.

For those who haven't been following along on the Matsukaze Workshops FB page (which you totally should!), this project took much longer than it should have--a full year due to several setbacks.  Trouble sourcing enough nice buttons for a reasonable price (since I needed around 40 matching buttons!), lack of sleeve then lining materials (I later found my lining material in a pile of stuff), running out of leather dye....  And of course, because it is a steampunk project rather than a historical one, it was lower on the priority list--so it didn't get worked on as much.

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

The Other Next Project; Wild Irish

I'm also starting another project this week--just waiting on thread.  I've been planning it for quite a while...even bought the fabric almost a year ago.


 And that is: 16th Century Wild Irish.  I figured it is time, especially since I wrote the article on 16th century Irish clothing more than a few years ago.  The outfit is really quite simple; the basis is the leine of golden yellow linen, the inar of red wool, and that is essentially all.  A fringed woolen brat is also a requirement, but I made mine a good 4.5 years ago (and use it every day).  No shoes, pants, or hat required.

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Fly-by-night Lancer's Tunic: Drafting

My latest harebrained scheme--a steampunk jacket in the form of a late Victorian Lancer's Tunic.  Now, there isn't much of a difference from drafting a body coat of the same system, but there are some.  Therefore, I decided to throw together a rough tutorial (images probably won't be the best) of the cutting system.

As mentioned, the tutorial is somewhat rough, and missing a few steps for the pictures--apologies for that.  But since the project is now finished, I decided I should probably publish what I have.

The system is roughly the same as that for my Frock Coat drafting tutorial--same author and company, but for military tunics.  I do recommend reading the Frock Coat Tutorial first, before continuing.--just for clarity.